Visiting Peñas....

Visiting a Peña while being in Bolivia is a must, especially if you have a stop in La Paz. It is a place where you can feel the enthusiasm and pride of Bolivians for their music and dances.

A Peña is a place where you go for a drink, dance and listen to folkloric-traditional music. When you go there, you can find a wide range of people, people from all ages, Cholitas and their partners, young and old Bolivians, and generally it’s common to see a group of foreign looking at the dance and drinking beer. Some folk music’s are very unique, and only found in the region, so your best bet as a foreign is to copy the steps from your neighbor.

All the time you are at a Peña, you will be listening to folk music all the time. In many, they have live music and performances. You can learn about music there, most Bolivians from middle-class know the names of the music and type of dances.

One of the most famous ones is the Ojo de Agua, Jamuy, Gota de Agua, among others. Most of them are located around downtown area. There is an approx. of 10-30 bolivianos for cover, depending on the demand for the night.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHhn5ARp6rI

Coming back to Canada/Independence Day

This week the Bolivian independence day was celebrated. The celebrations coincide with a year of my coming back to Canada. These facts made me very nostalgic to see all over the news all the holiday’s celebration, with the parting and cheerful spirit of nationalism that characterises Bolivians.


The bolivianos I got to meet have a particular sense of pride for their nationality and cultural background; even though they constantly complained about the numerous social problems and constant conflicts around the country, (some even say that peaceful times and consensus are not a characteristic of Andeans). From their early beginning as a Country, they have suffered a wide range of military coups, government changes and/or dictatorships. Evo´s presidency has not been the exception. Himself started his political career involved in several protests and strikes against governmental decision.

Protest and social movements have become an important part of Bolivian culture. With all that is involved, the color ful and protest songs, homogeneous outfits and banners are certainly shocking to foreign visitors. There has not been a time that during a protest, you see some people shooting photos to the crowd. The validity of each one is a matter of long and opposite discussions, but the fact of looking at indigenous groups marching and demanding better living conditions make you have a sense of sympathy to their causes.

That takes me to my year coming back to Canada. After almost a year in Bolivia, you are visually shocked to see things so organized and calm, way different landscape to La Paz. The daily street life is very different, even though people in Canada are more considerate to pedestrians, and generally a cleaner and organized layout in the streets, it lacks that sense of authenticity and culture that is so vibrant and alive in La Paz.


The culture shock was stronger for me as I am a Latin American myself, not standing this as a rule, generally speaking, you can find more commonalities and comfort with your own that others. A year has flown now, and I still feel a big connection with Bolivia, it has become for me my third home.

Entrada Universitaria (University Parade)

It’s been almost a year since the 2012 university´s dance parade in La Paz. I can still recalled the vibran traditional music all over downtown, the public ready to cheer up, dance and sing with the dancing groups, and each participant getting ready fixing the last minute hair, clothe and make up before the start.

Everyone was taking pictures with other dancer or groups, so you feel as a celebrity for a day. I was lucky to be encouraged to participate as part of the Fraternidad Chacarera Artes. Usually, in Bolivia dancing groups are called Fraternidad (Brotherhood) as they are known for a sense of belonging and loyalty to your group.

Many people have danced more twice or more, I met a lot that it was their tenth or more entrance, so they were pretty relaxed. As a foreign and non-experienced in public performances, I was really nervous. I was concerned about how I would stand those high heels shoes for more than 3 hours in uphill streets, and trying to remember all steps of the choreography.

The event started around 9:00 a.m., from the Downtown-East up to West-End close to the Miraflores stadium. The meeting time for my group was set up at 11 a.m., it was very challenging to get there as the typical traffic jam all over downtown, plus the main streets were blocked.

I was already up at 6:00 a.m., as most of the beauty saloons are booked in advance, you have to book an appointment as early as possible, I was there ready to be transformed in a Chaqueña at 7:00 a.m., it took at least an hour to do your hair and makeup. Every girl was beautifully prepared for the parade; most dances required a breeding hair, fake lashes, sparkling colors around eyes, and hair extensions.

After struggling in finding a taxi that was willing to take to downtown, my dance partner and I stopped for a delicious Silpancho to get energy for the day. I was a bit nervous to be late; however, the city´s Mayor was late so no dance group could start without him.. We needed to wait up to 2 p.m. to start, but we were ready waiting with our group.

Everywhere was full of beautiful colors and exciting energy, there were hair dressers, souvenirs, food, all kinds of stuff, it was possible to enjoy seeing other groups and their amazing outfits.

There were a wide range of groups from all types of dances from all regions of the country. Most of them have either a live music band performing for them, and a theme that differentiates them from others.

Many bands come from other cities like Oruro, where bands for Morenada dance are very famous. For my group, they have Dalmiro Cuellar, a very famous Chacarera singer.



We were all happy and excited to start.. took pictures with friends who were performing and friends who came to see us and provide advice for the dance... Most of it to have fun..

One year from that day, I still miss all the vibe, color and authentic culture in La Paz… with all its chaotic and loud occasions that are part of its attraction. I wish I get to dance and experience that feeling again.